Miami Herald's Critics' Favorites of 2007

I would like to share with you the recommendations provided by the Miami Herald's critics which I find useful and helpful in finding a good meal in Miami, should anyone be having a hard time deciding on what to eat in certain establishments:

From Linda Bladholm:

• Pork ribs at The Mess A'Round: Southern-style barbecue doesn't get any better at this small, mostly takeout joint. Add collards, mac and cheese and corn bread, and end with sweet potato pie. The Mess A'Round, 829 Foster Rd., Hallandale Beach; 954-454-9881.

• Pineapple Blossom Tearoom's mission fig and goat cheese turnovers: Grainy, port-braised fig jam and sweet, slightly tangy goat cheese wrapped in flaky pastry -- perfect for dipping in cream tea. 8214 Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 305-754-8328.

• Hiro's Yakko-San's deep-fried Japanese eggplant: Cloud-light, piping hot chunks of meltingly tender eggplant come with tentsuyu, a dipping sauce of dashi (kelp and dried fish base), mirin and light soy sauce. A sprinkling of grated ginger and dried bonito adds sharp heat and ocean essence. 17040-46 W. Dixie Hwy., North Miami Beach; 305-947-0064.

• Lula Kebab House's Georgian eggplant rolls: Thin, supple, succulent slices of fried eggplant are rolled up with a ground walnut, garlic and cilantro paste and served sprinkled with chopped walnuts -- delicious with the signature Kazakh-style kebabs called lula. 18250 Collins Ave., Sunny Isles Beach; 305-792-0151.

• Tutto Sicily's pistachio cream: A sophisticated alternative to peanut butter, this dreamy, creamy blend is divine on toast or biscotti. Marco Gigli sells it and other Sicilian imports on Sundays from a booth in front of the Lincoln Theatre on Lincoln Road. 786-325-2831 or marcogigli@hotmail.com or www.tuttosicily.it

From Victoria Pesce Elliot:

• Maia's Creole Café's gumbo: Smooth as velvet with a rich, not-too-thick roux and stocked with local blue crab and jumbo shrimp over buttery puffs of white rice, it's worth the drive from anywhere. 115 N. Krome Ave., Homestead; 786-243-2463.

• The Lido's thyme-flecked fries: Nearly as thin as fettuccine, crispy and golden, these miraculously ungreasy indulgences are divine. Be sure to ask for a bowl of the luscious garlic aioli for extra fat and flavor. The Standard Miami Beach Spa, 40 Island Ave., Miami Beach; 305-673-1717.

• Mahogany Grille's buttermilk biscuits: Heavenly on their own slathered with butter and honey, they're even better with the fabulous buttermilk-fried chicken. 2190 NW 183rd St., Miami Gardens; 305-626-8100.

• Sardinia Ristorante's orecchiette with wild boar sausage: Dense and bitey, it's blanketed with a mossy broccoli di rabe pesto -- an earthy peasant feast that calls to me frequently. 1801 Purdy Ave., Miami Beach; 305-531-2228.

• Yuga's baby lamb ribs with sweet soy glaze: Topped with a scattering of baby scallions, they're a killer way to start a meal at this younger cousin of Lan Pan-Asian. 357 Alcazar Ave., Coral Gables; 305-442-8600.

From Enrique Fernandez:

• Kingdom's hamburger: Size ranges from big to daunting, but it's the flavor that counts. Moist and well-seasoned, the burgers at this casual, Northern Corridor beer and wine bar are the best in town. 6708 Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 305-757-0074.

• Bin No. 18's Cuban sandwich (right): Nothing about chef-owner Alfredo Patiño's riff on a classic is conventional, from the pulled slow-roasted pork to the absent ham to the ciabatta bread. But somehow, it works. 1800 Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 786-235-7575.

• Xixón's tapas: You can't go wrong with any of the tapas at this restaurant-deli. It's as good as your local tapas bar in Madrid, and that's pretty damn good. 1801 Coral Way, Miami; 305-567-0408.

• La Vasca's tortilla de patatas: The owner of this Spanish deli fries the spuds in olive oil, the proper way to make Spain's national dish, the potato omelet. She sells them by the slice or the whole, pie-like tortilla. 3407 SW Eighth St., Miami; 305-461-1898.

• Michael's Genuine Food and Drink's roast chicken: They say a restaurant is as good as its roast chicken, and Michael Schwartz's is no exception. Of course, it helps to start with a poulet rouge heirloom bird and to have a wood-burning oven. Schwartz seasons it with salt and pepper, that's all -- awesome. 130 NE 40th St., Miami; 305-573-5550.

This Week's Hand-Picked Miami Food Summary

by dsevilla from Flickr

From the Miami Herald:

Hand-picked Foodie News:

• Michael Mina's Bourbon Steak will open next week in Aventura.
• Jennifer Behar of Coral Gables-based Jennifer's Homemade, known for biscotti, breadsticks, and flatbreads, will be on The Martha Stewart Show; Wednesday, 2 p.m., NBC6.
• The famed Three Guys From Miami's Noche Buena segment will be on Christmas in America with Rachel Ray again, at 10 p.m. Friday and 4 p.m. Saturday on the Food Network.

Now, from the Herald's prominent food writers:

Linda Bladholm talks about Grandma's French Cafe & Ice Cream Parlor of Fort Lauderdale being, well obviously, an ice-cream parlor that also doubles as a French creperie & bistro.

Enrique Fernandez talks about four Spanish restaurants that serves fish literally from Spain, and that the flavor of those fishes taste very Spanish even when in comparison with the locally available fish. The restaurants are La Dorada of Coral Gables, Ideas Restaurant of Coconut Grove, Puerto Gallego Restaurante y Marisqueria of Hialeah, and Rincon Espanol Restaurant of Dadeland.


And the Herald's nitpicky restaurant review of the day:

Dolores, But You Can Call Me Lolita
reviewed by Victoria Pesce Elliott
1000 South Miami Avenue
Miami, FL 33130
305-403-3103

The Good:

1. Cumin-spiked Gazpacho
2. Spinach & Goat Cheese Salad
3. Eggplant Timbale w/ Smokey Mozzarella Topped w/ Sauteed Shrimp
4. Leek & Spinach Tart
5. Vaca Frita
6. Ginger-orange-glazed Pork Tenderloin
7. Pan-seared Sea Bass with Cherry Tomatoes & Snow Peas
8. Roasted Salmon served w/ Vinegared Tomato Salad & Jasmine Rice
9. Veal Lasagne w/ Bolognese Sauce
10. Veal churrasco w/ Thin & Crispy Fries
11. Tiramisu
    

The Bad:

1. Four-Cheese Duck Quesadilla
2. "Oriental" Vegetable Spring Rolls
3. Short-rib Ravioli
4. Coconut Creme Brulee

And now on to the Miami New Times:

Alta Cocina
reviewed by Lee Klein
5837 Sunset Drive
South Miami, FL 33143
305-662-7435

The Good:

1. Curried Chicken
2. Fried Roti Bread
3. Herbed Salt Cod Fritters
4. Tender Fried Calamari Tossed w/ Lightly-pickled Escabeche Peppers
   
5. Fusion del Rabo (Braised Oxtail Meat w/ Homemade Gnocchi Glazed w/ Gorgonzola Sauce)
6. Steak Filet w/ Wild Mushroom Sauce & Cubed Potatoes
7. Passion Fruit Key Lime Pie (Passion Fruit Sorbet Over Graham Crackers)
   

The Bad:

1. Skirt Steak w/ Fries
   
2. Organic Veggie Sailboat (Grilled Portobello Mushrooms, Tomatoes, Zucchini, & Yellow Squash w/ Truffle-Basil Dressing)
3. Ricotta-mushroom ravioli Topped w/ Sun-dried Tomato Sauce
4. Shrimp Reggiano (Six Cheese-coated Shrimps w/ Handkerchief pasta w/ Mushrooms)

Lemon Fizz
reviewed by Pamela Robin Brandt

16310 West Dixie Highway

North Miami Beach, FL 33160

305-949-6599

The Good:

1. Grape Fizz Smoothie w/ Vanilla Ice Cream
2. Falafel Patties Saj
3. Za'atar "Thyme & Olive Oil" Saj (Thyme, EVOO, Sumac, Sesame Seeds)
4. Middle-Eastern Labneh & Brined Olives Saj
5. Nutella & Strawberries Dessert Saj
   

The Bad:

1. Surprisingly, none mentioned? MangiaMiami's OP: Fajita Saj - it could be better, and if you wanted something Tex-Mex, go to a Tex-Mex restaurant, not here.
   

That's the wrap-up for this week's Foodie News for Miami-Dade! And feel free to comment on any of these reviews and tidbits - no one food critic is better than another, except for your own!

Hanukkah's Sufganiyot

With over 10,000 Israelis, and even more Jewish people from Latin America, Eastern Europe, and elsewhere bringing the total Jewish population to well over 500,000 in South Florida (according to Shalom South Florida), Hanukkah is an important holiday that must be observed alongside Christmas.

While I'm not Jewish myself, I've been blessed to find a reason to look forward to the Jewish Festival of Lights - and that reason is sufganiyot! (singular: sufganiyah)

Sufganiyah from Jerusalem Pizza

What are sufganiyot? I had no idea until just two days ago even though I've always had Jewish friends while growing up. Some people have described them to be "Hanukkah donuts" but while many I've tried did taste like donuts, the best tasting one I've had actually tasted more like the New Orleans' beignets, but with a fantastic strawberry jam filling. The airy texture of the dough tasted like what I would imagine sweet heaven to be!

One thing that struck me was that this is only available during Hanukkah - and it did not seem to have any religious decoration or any of the sort that would commemorate Hanukkah on it. It seems so opposite of what we would do for Christmas - with our Christmas tree cookies and all. But then, I was explained by a friend of mine, there was a religious connotation after all - they're fried. Hanukkah is apparently about oil (specifically about how there was enough olive oil for one day to burn for light, but it burned for eight days instead). Because of the reverence to oil, fried foods such as latkes and sufganiyot are popular during this holiday season among the Jews.

Here's what Wikipedia has to say about the simple preparation for sufganiyot:

The sufganiya was originally prepared as two pieces of dough surrounding a jam filling, which was then fried together. Today, balls of dough are deep-fried separately and then injected with a filling through the use of special injector machines. (Source: Wikipedia)

Sufganiyot in Sarah's Tent

They're available only during days leading up to and during Hanukkah. This year, that meant sufganiyot are extremely popular for the eight-day holiday from December 4th to December 12th. You would not be able to find them any other time of the year (unless if you sneakingly make them in your own home, which I definitely would not hesitate doing)!

Looking for it was not easy, but I can tell you where the best sufganiyot I've had in Miami, so far. I've gone around the Jewish enclave in North Miami Beach and Aventura and stopped by several supermarkets and a restaurant. I went to several Kosher establishments: Amazing Savings Kosher Supermarket, The Kosher World, Jerusalem Pizza, La Chocolatier, Abraham's Bakery all in North Miami Beach; and Sarah's Tent (the supermarket, not the restaurant) in Aventura. Surprisingly, I found only three places having sufganiyot during all my one-day travel in the area, and they were at Jerusalem Pizza ($1.50 each), The Kosher World ($1.00 each), and Sarah's Tent ($1.25 each).

Might be hard to spot, but can you see the sufganiyot here in The Kosher World?

And I've tried the ones from Jerusalem Pizza and Sarah's Tent. The Kosher World looked much like that of the Jerusalem Pizza, so I bypassed it - and I'm hoping that wasn't a mistake! The sufganiyah at Jerusalem Pizza tasted like a donut with an okay jam filling (imagine Dunkin' Donuts). I hope you understand... a Dunkin' Donut quality donut for $1.50 each? My optimism was unfortunately low. Later, I convinced myself to try one from Sarah's Tent simply because it *looked* so much nicer. And rightly so, it tasted so much better! Like a beignet with a richer filling - and believe me - if you haven't had one from Sarah's Tent, I am doubtful that you had a good one at all! In the end, after I had a bite of the sufganiyah from Sarah's Tent, I knew my trip had not been in vain, and I saw Hanukkah in a whole new bright light.

Okay... one more last look at the wonderful sufganiyot sitting serenely on a pan blanked by "snow."

The "finished" sufganiyot in Sarah's Tent.

Okay, wrapping up... and feel free to let me know where you love to get your sufganiyot! 'Til next year, and I'll be ready - and hopefully you will be too!

Jerusalem Pizza

761 NE 167th St
North Miami Beach, FL 33162

(305) 653-6662

The Kosher World

1672 NE 164th St
North Miami Beach, FL 33162

(305) 944-7726

Sarah's Tent

3565 NE 207th St
Aventura, FL 33180

(305) 933-2888

And as a bonus, the recipe for sufganiyot came out in the Miami Herald a few weeks ago. Here it follows:

Sufganiyot (recipe makes 14 servings)
Vanilla sugar should be made a week or two ahead if possible: Place 2 cups sugar into a jar or bag with tight seal. Split 1 whole vanilla bean lengthwise and submerge in sugar. Seal and set aside so flavors can blend.

• 2 1/2 cups self-rising flower
• 2 (8-ounce) cartons vanilla low-fat yogurt
• 2 tablespoons vanilla sugar
• 2 eggs
• 6 cups refined olive oil (pure or light)
  
• 3/4 cup confectioners' sugar
• 1 cup seedless strawberry jelly

1. Place flour, yogurt, vanilla sugar and eggs in a large bowl. Knead until ingredients are combined and a sticky, doughy batter is formed. Cover with a kitchen towel and let it rest for 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Heat oil in a 6-quart stockpot, covered, over medium heat. When dough is ready, uncover oil and raise heat to high.
3. Scoop out a tablespoonful of batter and drop in oil. Don't make the donuts too big, so they can cook through. You should be able to fry about 7 donuts at a time.
4. Using a slotted spoon, turn donuts when halfway browned, about 30 seconds to 1 minute. Fry for another 2 to 3 minutes or until entire donut is deep golden brown and cooked through. Remove with slotted spoon or tongs and let cool on paper towel-lined plates. Repeat with remaining batter.
5. Fill a squeeze bottle with jelly and inject a little into each donut. Roll them in confectioners' sugar or shake, 3 donuts at a time, in a paper bag filled with confectioners' sugar.
   

Sergio's becomes Casavana

Kendall's Sergio's before converting to Casavana
Taken by eurowestgirl from Flickr

Except for two Sergio's - its landmark Coral Way location and an unrelated Sergio's on Bird Road, all the Sergio's in Miami have become Casavana.

What is Casavana? I am not sure, but I'm guessing it's a play on words "casa" (home) and "Havana" (the Cuban capital), to evoke an image of home-style Cuban cuisine.

The point of Casavana, according to Lazaro & Jose Garcia - both owners, is to commercialize Cuban cuisine into a chain-like concept - similar to Pollo Tropical, but with less emphasis on it being a fast food establishment, and more emphasis on it being a casual in-dining experience.

And many people think they've got what it takes to expand that concept beyond South Florida not in the too distant future - after all, they're the same people that expanded Pollo Tropical all across Florida. They also were the people that expanded Latin American Restaurant & Cafeteria in Miami, during its heydays.

It would be nice if they worked on expanding Latin American Restaurant & Cafeteria again - it's so hard to find them nowadays and I liked their Cuban especial sandwiches.

Anyways..., why didn't they change Sergio's on Coral Way? Because that one Sergio's is already a Miami culinary institution - and they rightly feel that it should not feel commercialized. Changing Sergio's would be like making the Rascal's House disappear. I know you would agree with me once you try the tortilla con maduros (egg frittata with pan-fried plantains - I just ask them to take out the potatoes in mine since it normally comes with them, I think) - so inexpensive, big, and good! And it's a perfect tapa to share with the table.

Another reason why Sergio's specifically stands out is because they're open for 24 hours in the weekends - so it's a haven for Miami's club-goers as well. And I wouldn't want them to change that - where else are you going to get a good cup of coffee so late at night? And no, there's not a 24 hours Starbucks in Miami either.

But anyways... let's hope Casavana spreads out of Miami-Dade and makes a positive name for Miami's culinary scene, as they've vowed to take a step above mom & pop cafeterias in quality.

Let me know if you have tried them already - and how your experiences have been!



Locations of Casavana Cuban Cuisine

- 2814 NE 8th St., Homestead
- 13600 SW 152nd St., Miami (Country Walk)
- 16435 NW 67th Ave., Miami Lakes
- 8202 Mills Dr., Miami (Kendall)

COMING SOON: Restaurants in Wynwood

Wynwood Arts District is going to see a number of restaurants pop up, thanks to the demand of art-goers wanting a place to relax and dine in an area that is dominated by warehouses. The warehouses may be great for holding impressive collections of artworks inside, but it also helps make the area feel dead at night, with lonely street lights casting the windowless concrete exterior in a yellow haze.

But meanwhile, let's just be thankful for two things that makes Wynwood exciting...

1) Art
2) Daylight

Also, thankfully, developer Joey Goldman is going to do something more to help make Wynwood become pedestrian-friendly. After all, it has the aspirations to become Miami's answer to New York's Chelsea - although us Miamenses know that we have a long way to go.

"Joey Goldman said he will open five eateries in the neighborhood within the next 18 months, among them a Vietnaemse restaurant, a noodle shop and a tea house."

But when the restaurants open, you can bet I'll be visiting it more often - especially for some good Vietnamese food!

Link from the Miami Herald.

But meanwhile, while there's not really a late-night dining option in Wynwood, one can still get solid Korean food at Choice Cafe, ...

2750 NW 3rd Ave Ste 26
Miami, FL 33127

(305) 438-4224

Mon-Sat 8:30 a.m.-5:00 p.m.

... and reliable Cuban at Enriqueta's.

2830 NE 2nd Ave
Miami, FL 33137

(305) 573-4681

Mon-Fri 6:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m.
Sat 6:00 a.m.-2:00 p.m.

If anyone knows of other eateries that are worth trying out in Wynwood, let me know!